A few weeks ago, I walked into one of my favorite spots, La Otra (part of Lita Restaurant), for a Sherry class hosted by Nick Africano of Mirador in Kingston, NY. It was one of those evenings that reminded me why I love what I do: a room filled with conversation, curiosity, and people who genuinely care about what’s in the glass. Nick shared some of his own wines and guided us through the world of Sherry with such ease, blending history, personal stories, and thoughtful insights about the state of Jerez today. The tapas from Chef Mike Iorio and the Lita team were spot on, each bite echoing the flavors in the glass. It wasn’t just a class; it felt like being invited into someone’s passion.
Right at the start of the evening, I spotted my dear friend Kerin (aka Kiki of La Luz Selections) across the room. We hadn’t planned to meet, but of course it made perfect sense that she was there, since she and Nick often collaborate. She was representing a wine that immediately caught my attention, and before the night was over, I knew I had fallen for it.
That wine was Cultivo “La Santa” 2023.
My connection to Palomino and the wines of Jerez began more than a decade ago, when Kiki first brought a bottle of Fino to pair with an Indian meal I had cooked. I still remember that pairing: the briny, savory character of the Sherry seemed to mirror and elevate the spices on the table. It opened my eyes to how versatile and soulful these wines could be. Since then, I’ve learned so much from her and from each bottle that’s crossed my path. Fortified or not, the wines of this region are salty, mineral, and endlessly fascinating. 
Cultivo “La Santa” 2023, made by winemaker Mónica Palenzuela, feels like a beautiful continuation of that story. It’s 100% Palomino grown in the white albariza soils of Cádiz, but instead of being fortified into Sherry, it’s made as a still wine with a bit of skin contact and aged under a natural veil of flor. That layer of yeast, so essential to Fino and Manzanilla, gives the wine its savory depth, nutty nuance, and whisper of the sea.
A couple of weeks later, I had the chance to moderate a wine and food pairing dinner at Sonny’s Indian Kitchen, and I decided to include this wine as a surprise addition to the lineup. It was a huge hit. I was delighted to see how many people recognized just how harmonious the Palomino grape can be with Indian cuisine.
Cultivo “La Santa” 2023 – A distinctive white wine from Cádiz, made entirely from Palomino. Aromas of sea spray, chamomile, citrus zest, and toasted almonds. The palate is textured and layered, saline, savory, and bright with minerality, touched by a bit of flor funk that adds complexity. The finish is long and mouthwatering, carrying the memory of the coast. It’s one of the most versatile wines I’ve tasted from the region, perfect with cheeses, briny tapas, and dishes with bold flavors or spice.