“Herri Mina means Homesick”
What an appropriate title for this post! While my family and I have been doing nothing but staying home these days, I find myself homesick. Not sick of home, but homesick in the sense of missing what life looked like just a year ago. COVID times have been strange, to say the least.
The idea of homesickness also made me think of my parents and in-laws, and how they must have spent years feeling that same way… away from family, culture, and everything familiar, while building a better life for us here. That reflection inspired today’s food and wine pairing.
Despite the unseasonably warm weather we’ve had in New Jersey, the calendar says it’s that time of year again: Diwali, the festival of lights, is right around the corner. In normal years, this season means family gatherings, bright celebrations, and weeks of dinners and events: first Diwali, then Thanksgiving, then Christmas. Add to that the long days that Q4 brings in the retail wine world, and it’s a whirlwind of joy and chaos.
But this year looks different. My mom’s Diwali celebration will happen over Zoom, our family Thanksgiving has been canceled, and holiday traditions may need to be reimagined with virtual Secret Santas and video calls. It’s not ideal, but we’re staying hopeful… and vigilant.
Last Saturday, while rummaging through the freezer, I came across a bag of sweet corn I had vacuum-sealed back in August. Immediately, I thought of a sunny summer market day when I bought it, and I knew I wanted to showcase those golden kernels in something special. With Diwali in mind, I landed on an Indian-style corn fritter: Makai Pakora.
This recipe is a simple, vibrant take on the pakoras I grew up eating, adapted from David Tanis’ version in the New York Times. Sweet summer corn makes the flavors pop, but it’s forgiving enough to work with frozen kernels, too. Best of all, if you dread deep-frying (like I usually do), don’t worry, the fritters brown beautifully in just a couple of minutes. I even made them ahead and reheated them in the oven before serving.
The real magic, though, was pairing the pakoras with a rare white wine from the French Basque region:
Famille Berrouet Herri Mina Irouleguy Blanc 2018
Jean-Claude Berrouet, best known as the former winemaker at Petrus, created this estate after decades in Bordeaux, driven by the pull to return home to Irouleguy. In Basque, Herri means “country” and Mina means “homesick.” A name that carries so much resonance. The wine itself, a blend of Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, and Petit Corbu, is textured yet fresh, with stone fruit, honeysuckle, and a saline edge. Complex but utterly drinkable, it has the minerality and length to hold its own next to the spiced fritters. Truly a gem of the Basque Country, and one I’ll never forget pairing with this dish.
Makai Pakora (Spiced Corn Fritters)
Ingredients
1 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup fine cornmeal
1/4 cup chickpea flour
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp turmeric powder
2 1/2 cups fresh corn kernels (5–6 ears; thaw if frozen)
4 tbsp canola or grapeseed oil
1 tsp cumin seeds
1/2 tsp mustard seeds
1/2 tsp fennel seeds
1 red or green chile, finely chopped
1/2 cup chopped scallions
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1 tbsp grated ginger
Canola oil, for frying
Mango chutney (such as Major Grey’s)
Method
- In a large bowl, combine the flours, cornmeal, salt, baking powder, and turmeric.
- Process the corn in a food processor until a coarse purée forms. Stir into the flour mixture until combined (the batter will be thick).
- In a small pan, heat the oil over medium-high. Fry the cumin, mustard, and fennel seeds until browned and popping. Pour the spiced oil into the batter and mix. Add scallions, cilantro, chile, and ginger, stirring well. (Batter can be prepared a few hours ahead.)
- Heat a few inches of oil in a saucepan until shimmering. Using a small scoop, drop spoonfuls of batter into the hot oil and fry until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Drain on paper towels.
- Serve hot with mango chutney, or reheat in a 350°F oven for 10 minutes before serving.
Makes 18–20 fritters.